1st August – Message from Jake’s Dad
August 1st, 2009 by Jake
So they are on their way! Jake telephoned me yesterday evening to tell me that all was well and that everybody was ready to go. Chris and Dave will be remaining in BC to man the radios and generally be the liaison between the mountain and us. They have converted the “Marmo-dome” into the command centre from where they will be receiving and transmitting weather data, managing high camp inventories and monitoring the progress of the many teams now climbing both routes. Needless to say they will be keeping a close eye on our team and will be letting me know how things are progressing.
Speaking of the weather, it is looking quite good at the moment: “the weather appears to be cooperating, so far, with clear skies predicted at least until the 5th. The big concern will be the wind which looks to be remaining moderate to strong throughout the next 4-5 days. However, it is similar to what the team had last time they were up - so nasty, but manageable”
Talking of Marmo-dome, Jake managed to smuggle some photos out so I thought that now might be a good time for you all to see what Jake has been talking about – so here we are:
This is the Marmo-dome. Although it is difficult to scale, it is pretty big, with plenty of room for at least 10 people to lounge around in, in some (relative) comfort. Behind it you can see the mess-tent – which to those who don’t understand army-speak means kitchen/dining.
As Jake has already explained the scree these tents are pitched on is not solid ground. It is the rock scree which is “floating” on top of the glacier (some of which can bee seen in the background).
Jake, himself, sleeps (and to a certain amount stays awake a lot) in his own tent:
 
which is, as you can see, kept immaculately tidy (NOT!):
The only other shelter is the, er, latrine (!), which, if nothing else, has a nice view, and is kept well away from every other tent in the valley – for obvious reasons.
And, if you are bored with that view, you just turn around:
But fear not, Jake brought a very special friend with him to remind him of home: A climbing buddy from Saskia (his very much more sensible other half)

Oh, and in case you have all forgotten what he looks like…….

Sorry about the ginger beard – it’s a mountain thing!
That’s all for today folks. I will keep updating as I get information and lets all keep our fingers crossed.
.
Speaking of the weather, it is looking quite good at the moment: “the weather appears to be cooperating, so far, with clear skies predicted at least until the 5th. The big concern will be the wind which looks to be remaining moderate to strong throughout the next 4-5 days. However, it is similar to what the team had last time they were up - so nasty, but manageable”
Talking of Marmo-dome, Jake managed to smuggle some photos out so I thought that now might be a good time for you all to see what Jake has been talking about – so here we are:

This is the Marmo-dome. Although it is difficult to scale, it is pretty big, with plenty of room for at least 10 people to lounge around in, in some (relative) comfort. Behind it you can see the mess-tent – which to those who don’t understand army-speak means kitchen/dining.
As Jake has already explained the scree these tents are pitched on is not solid ground. It is the rock scree which is “floating” on top of the glacier (some of which can bee seen in the background).
Jake, himself, sleeps (and to a certain amount stays awake a lot) in his own tent:
 
which is, as you can see, kept immaculately tidy (NOT!):
The only other shelter is the, er, latrine (!), which, if nothing else, has a nice view, and is kept well away from every other tent in the valley – for obvious reasons.
And, if you are bored with that view, you just turn around:
But fear not, Jake brought a very special friend with him to remind him of home: A climbing buddy from Saskia (his very much more sensible other half)

Oh, and in case you have all forgotten what he looks like…….
Sorry about the ginger beard – it’s a mountain thing!
That’s all for today folks. I will keep updating as I get information and lets all keep our fingers crossed.
.
Will
August 1st, 2009
fingers crossed for them all!!
Charlie Hampton
August 2nd, 2009
Very best of luck with the climb Jake. We are thinking of you often. With love and best wishes from (cousin) Charlie, Suzie & Oliver