Tuesday 7th July
July 9th, 2009 by Jake
Okay, although last night was fun, having to get up again at 4.30am, and climb up to C1, whilst most of them were still in their sleeping bags perhaps wasn't such fun. A snatched breakfast and an early start up the glacier just as it was beginning to get light eventually got us up to C1 at about 9.15am. The others were getting their gear together, and taking up the original plan where we had left off the previous day, Fabrizio continued fixing up to C2 with all of the rest of us in tow, carrying either rope or tents for the camp. Clambering up the fixed rope with a large pack on my back wasn't too bad, but it wasn't helped by the fact that most of the team were fresh, and I'd already been climbing for 3.5 hours, just to reach them. The powder was steep and deep, and even though there were people ahead breaking trail, the steps frequently broke through, which would leave you swimming in the sugary snow. The most interesting part of the climb to C2 was the traverse - a 200m long roughly horizontal (although it did go up and down) section where you had a 4000 ft drop straight down to the glacier beneath your feet. Once again, the quality of the fresh powder on rock and ice made this quite a hairy traverse, and we were certainly thankful for the security of the rope along it. Above the traverse, we kept climbing up for another few hundred meters until we eventually reached C2. Now although it is certainly spacious in comparison to C1, C2 is by no means a comfortable site. Situated underneath a steep cliff-like rock band, it is relatively protected by the wind in the form of two balconies which average about 5 feet wide. On the upper balcony we managed to erect two 2 man tents, and make use of a well battered but still standing 2 man which was already in place. The remnents of this fellow tents were strewn around the camp, and it was a wonder that he was the sole survivor. Five of us decided to stay at C2, whilst the rest of the team and the HAPs went back down to BC. My tent partner and I managed to build a relatively flat platform on which to put our tent, but it still left about 1 foot (of my side!) hanging over the edge. Using pitons and snow stakes we secured the tent on against the ravages of the wind that would sweep along the upper balcony, and hoped that we would all be still in situ the following morning. Although to start with, I was feeling quite strong, it didn't take long for the headaches to start up, and realising that I had drunk about 300ml since I'd been climbing all day, that it was time to get some fluids down me. Having collected snow and ice in a large waterproof bag, we set about melting as much as we could and drinking as much as possible. Aided by a couple of paracetemol, the 2 litres of drink soon started to help, and the headache subsided. In my precarious sleeping position, I would be a liar to say that I slept well, but between the howling of the wind and the fidgeting of my tent partner, I managed a few minutes here and there!



