Early start for Chris, Dave and me. Luckily although it had sounded like there had been a lot of snow during the night, there had been less than an inch. Very disappointed that there was no porridge at Breakfast - my usual staple start for a day on the hill. Luckily, one of the guys from Broad Peak had brought up with him a squeezy tub of marmite, which made the chapattis a lot more appetizing.

It was a lovely, still morning, although we could see that higher up the mountain, the slopes were already being pounded by the wind. We got to the base of the route without any problems, and swiftly geared up. The two HAPs started off in front of us breaking trail, although to be honest, the snow was frozen and nice and solid underfoot. The climb up to C1 was just the same as the last 5 times I'd done this, but it was a relief to have an almost empty pack on my back (everything I needed was already up in C2). Having started climbing at about 6.45, I arrived at C1 at about 10am, paused briefly for a drink of water and a Mars bar, and then continued up.

By this point I'd actually overtaken one of the HAPs (although the one still in front was setting a furious pace!). The traverse again went without a hitch and although there seemed to be even less snow on it than before I passed along it without a hitch. Luckily, the two or three rope lengths above the traverse which on the previous trips up have had shocking sugary snow that just collapses under every step, was in much better condition. The steps kicked into it held firm, and gave a reassuringly solid platform underfoot from which to push up.

I arrived into C2 at about 1.30ish, and after collecting snow and making myself comfortable in my tent, immediately got the stove on to brew up. Chris arrived about an hour later, and so he came over to have a drink in my tent before making himself at home in the storage tent. The storage tent in an old North Face Mountain 25 with has remained standing since last season midway along the upper balcony. It's been pretty hammered by the wind and the snow for the last year, and the snow has filled up the cap between the inner and the fly, which sounds awful but has created a sort of igloo effect, and therefore meaning that it is nice and insulated and warm inside. Of all the tents in C2, it's probably the warmest and the strongest! In fact, the 3 person tent that we'd put up on our first trip up to C2, lasted less than a week before it was destroyed by the wind and the snow. Don't worry FTA bean counters, we've taken it down and it'll be brought back to BC for some TLC!

Dave got into camp not long after, and we spent the afternoon drinking, eating and chatting (which is about all you can do up here really). Every so often we'd hear a massive deep rumble, and we'd both scramble for the tent door in time to catch a huge avalanche pouring down the side of Broad Peak. Dinner that night for me was dehydrated Chicken Tikka Massala followed by custard with mixed berries. A total of about 1400 calories in two packets. Very delicious, but quite a struggle, with my appetite decreasing the higher I go. Mummy, you'd be very proud - clean plate!

It's amazing how we seem to be putting away so many calories everyday (especially in BC), yet we're still losing weight. I can now almost fit both hands fully around one of my thighs (thumbs to middle fingers)! So if anyone out there is bored of Weight-Watchers or the Atkins diet, then go on an expedition for 2 months. You don't even have to climb, just stay in BC, eat as much as you can, do next to no exercise (other than the walk in), and watch the pounds fall off you. I call it the 5000 plan (5000 calories a day at 5000m above sea level for 50 days, losing about 5lbs a week - perfect!). All inclusive base camp packages available for $5000.