Ghula to Paiju (3368m). We all slept very well after yesterday's activity, our bodies being shocked back into action after so long with minimal exercise. I'm sure I'm not the only one who would admit to a certain amount of stiffness in the legs this morning - and after having stretched them after yesterday's trek. We had another early start - up at 6am, pack up personal kit and collapse tents, breakfast at 6.30 - today tomato and green pepper omelettes and strawberry jam on toast, and finally on the trail by 7.20am This time when we left, we were amongst the porters, all with their massive loads. Despite many wearing sandals, or cheap trainers at most, they moved with serious speed up the valley. The terrain was very similar to yesterday, although once the early morning cloud lifted, we were treated to an incredible view of sharp needle-like granite towers lining the route up either side of the valley. Snow and ice dusted these wonderful sentinels, many of which seemed to defy gravity by their extreme and imposing shapes. Today's distance was slightly shorter than yesterday, but was a harder trek over more demanding terrain. Although we've only gone up about 100-150m from the previous camp, there's been a lot more up and down, scrambling along narrow paths, and once the campsite finally camp into sight, it was a very welcome relief. It is located in a beautiful grove of trees which offered shade from the unrelenting sun which had made the trekking particularly hot and bothersome through the dusty valley for most of the day. Paiju means salt in Balti (the dialect spoken out here) and beyond the birch and poplar trees growing in the valley you can see slopes, white with saline deposit. Although much prettier than Ghula, the camp is a very similar set up, with flattened terraces for the tents, a few permanent stone buildings and great washing and toilet facilities. The porters are all camping below us, not it tents, but under large squares of transparent plastic in groups of 8 or so. Despite their relative lack of privacy, they certainly look cosy, all snuggled in together with a fire cooking on one side of their 'accommodation'. We've also been treated to our first view of the Baltoro Glacier, which starts about 40 miles further up the valley (although not from the base of K2). It's ugly grey rocky snout covers the whole width of the valley, several miles 'upstream', but the dangerous maze of folded and crushed ice is just visible even further up. In a couple of days, we will start trekking along the Baltoro, before reaching Concordia, and turning up the Godwin Austin Glacier, which runs all the way up past Broad Peak and up to the base of K2.

Anyhow - tomorrow is a rest day, and I can certainly think of worse places to be forced to have one, perched as we are in this idyllic grove, and without a doubt, the last trees we'll see for a good 8-9 weeks. It's funny how the few patches of green up this grey, yellow sandy valley look so out of place, yet are such a comfort to see. Living (especially as I do) in the countryside back home, it's very easy to become complacent of the lush greenery, however it's one of the most obvious things that I miss when I'm in amongst the apparent lifelessness of the greater ranges.